Well Owner FAQ
We love to drill all year round. While the cold may slow us down, and your drilling project may take a a week instead of a couple days, but it won't cost you any more than if we had drilled in the summer because we charge by the foot, not the hour. Winter actually makes some difficult or impossible well locations in the summer feasible. The ground, once cleared of snow and allowed to freeze, creates a surface as hard as concrete, allowing us access to spots that would otherwise be expensive or impossible to access (such as soft ground, swamps, clay fields, half load restrictions on your access roads, etc).
First consideration: a properly constructed drilled well is 99% safe from biological contamination while a properly constructed dug well is never safe, a drilled well is less affected by seasonal quantity problems than a dug well (in drilled wells the water is deeper and less influenced by seasonal weather patterns), a drilled well is less affected by seasonal quality problems than dug well (the spring thaw, floods, etc, are less likely to impact drilled wells versus dug).
Second consideration: the cost of a properly constructed dug well, as per Reg. 903, of average depth for our region (20 feet) and the cost of a properly constructed drilled well of average depth for our region (150 feet) is about the same. Prior to the Walkerton Crisis (see details), lots of construction companies, handymen, and farmers would construct dug wells for homeowners. The MOE has since clamped down on this practice, and by 2015 in our region there were only a handful of illegal diggers still operating. The few licensed diggers in our region follow the same regulations as drillers, and as such a properly constructed dug well costs about the same as a properly constructed drilled well.
Third consideration: selling a home with a drilled well is a great deal easier than a dug well. The primary reason for this is that the buyer's banks will often refuse a mortgage without the well being evaluated (we or another driller or digger is then hired to evaluate it), and dug wells more often than drilled wells (5:1 ratio) fail to meet CMHCs standards (see details) or the bank's standards (bacteria free)).
Fourth consideration: while we only provide drilled well construction for new wells, there are some locations where a drilled well is impractical or impossible but where a dug well does work. In these situations we have come to rely on a professional well digger and we will gladly pass along our preferred contact's info should we feel you are in one of our regions few areas where dug wells are more practical than drilled.
We don't know. No one does, at least not anything close to 100% certainty. If anyone tells you otherwise, they are lying to you, and or themselves.
We provide detailed models for your area (average well, worst case scenario, best case scenario) all based on the wells that already exist around you (we can even provide you with copies of your neighbours well records). We can guarantee our rates, but not how deep we will end up having to go. We will keep you in the loop the entire time, and even setup thresholds where we need to contact you prior to continuing. Ultimately though, there are too many factors, even if there are 20 wells within 1000' of your well location for us to guarantee a specific depth or cost. There are also factors like, confined aquifers, flowing wells, salt contamination, oil contamination, tool and equipment failures, and gas wells - while all rare and or area dependent, can dramatically increase costs.
All we can say for sure is that it is important to talk to your driller on site prior to drilling, talk to your neighbours, and gather as much information as possible in order to make an informed decision. Choosing a driller that is the right fit for you if far more important than saving "theoretical money". A great deal of our new well projects (5%-10% annually) are replacements for the "cheaper guys" well, these clients ended up paying for 2 wells, which is always well above the difference in our cost to the "cheap guys".
First. Stop drinking the water if you haven't already (be especially careful with children, as they may not understand that they cannot brush their teeth with the tap water, or open their mouth in the shower, etc). Boil for 1 complete minute at a rolling boil before drinking or eating. Toilets, showers, baths (but not for infants who are more vulnerable to infection), and laundry are ok to use the raw water.
Second, call us. We will help you understand what is going on, and can provide all the services required to rectify the problem. Disinfecting a well is not a DIY project. We believe that the health unit is motivated by the idea that at least dumping down the bleach can't make things worse, but they are wrong, it really can make things worse. And keep in mind, that as a well owner, you are liable for any damage you or your well causes to the water table.
DO NOT DUMP 2 BOTTLES OF BLEACH INTO YOUR WELL. We are aware that some sources will give you this advice, but it is not safe or effective, and most often is counterproductive.
Online Version of our Well Owners Booklet
More Sections Coming Soon
1. Do you have power?
2. Did you check your fuse/breaker?
3. If you have power, and you know what and where your low pressure cut-off switch is, pry the lever very slowly (if it doesn't hurt you are going too fast) until you hear a click. You may have to repeat this action a dozen times until you get the correct motion.
4. If you do have power, your breaker/fuse is fine, and you cannot find (or do not have) a low pressure cut-off switch, you should give us a call. We may be able to correct the problem over the phone, or you may need to hire us to come out and take a look.
Well Owner Booklet (Online Version)
Online Version of NWO Well Services "Well Owners Package"
More sections coming soon!
Government Funding and Assistance Programs Applicable for Well Owners
The District of Thunder Bay Social Services Administration Board
